Thursday, November 24, 2011

1925-49 Part 2

Here is Part 2!

The Golden Age of Fashion Illustration

The 20s and 30s have often been referred to as the "Golden Age". Conde Nast invested in illustration very heavily within the pages of Vogue based on his admiration for Vogel's Gazette du bon ton. In fact, the cover of Vogue from 1910 until the second World War featured an illustration from a member of his team. His team then consisted of Helen Dryden, George Wolf Plank, Georges Lepape, and J.C. Leyendecker. During this time, Nast's team expanded. At this point, a lot of European artists began to move in on the scene such as Eduardo Benito, Charles Martin, Pierre Brissaud, Andre Marty, and Mario Simon. Although Nast was thrilled to have so many options, he did complain that, "the artists were chiefly interested in achieving amusing drawings and decorative effects...they were bored to death by anything resembling an obligation to report the spirit of contemporary fashion faithfully."

George Wolfe Plank, Cover of American Vogue, February 1927.

Georges Lepape, Cover design for French and British Vogue, 1938.

Benito, "Princess Lointaine" from a brochure advertising the Maison Fourrures Max, 1925.

Benito, "Scheherazade" from a brochure advertising the Maison Fourrures Max, 1925.


Illustration vs. Photography

Nast always valued illustrations over photography, as long as it possessed Vogue's intangible chic. However, his views were not echoed by American, Carl Erickson (Eric), and "arch rival" Count Rene Bouet-Williaumez. These man set new standards of realism in illustration during the 30s and both works were found on the cover of Nast's magazines during the interwar years. Starting with the 30s, photography grew in popularity and preference. The first color photograph that graced the cover of a publication in 1932, an image of a woman in a bathing suit by Edward Steichen. In 1936, Nast realized that photographic covers sold better, and that the future was photography, and illustrations were used primarily for the inside pages.

Willaumez, La Marquise de Paris in evening gown by Augustabernard, American Vogue, September 1933.

Willaumez, Woman in hat by Agnes, American Vogue, August 1935.

Eric, Cover of British Vogue, September 1936.

Eric, Advertisement for L.S. Ayres & Co. of Indianapolis, 1942.

The Rise of the U.S. Fashion Industry

When the Wall Street Crash of 1929 occured, the American fashion industry began to grow less dependent on Parisian couture and began to make strides in the garment manufacturers during the interwar years by improving large-scale production and by creating standardized sizing. Soon the ready-to-wear industry in America began to outshine any European country. Also setting the U.S. apart, American designers began to be promoted by big department stores such as Lord & Taylor and Bergdorf Goodman.

Cosmetics Illustration

The cosmetics Industry also boomed during the interwar years and illustrators began to emphasize the face and makeup.

Erte, Cover of Harper's Bazaar, May 1933.

Part 3 to come soon!

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